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Sunday, August 10, 2025

The brutal trade-off that may resolve the way forward for meals


Maybe probably the most essential concept for understanding our species’ future on this planet boils down to 2 boring phrases: land use.

To mitigate local weather change, people might want to extract essential minerals to construct huge numbers of photovoltaic cells and wind generators. We’ll want thousands and thousands of tons of copper to wire continent-spanning energy grids. However probably the most immutable useful resource constraint we face — the one we will’t mine extra of — is land.

Though many people don’t see it, as a result of most people now stay in city areas, the story of land constraints is mostly a story about agriculture, which devours almost half of our planet’s liveable land; city and suburban areas take up solely a tiny fraction.

We’re not utilizing all that farmland very properly. Beef farming, for instance, occupies “almost half the world’s agricultural land to provide simply 3 p.c of its energy,” the journalist Michael Grunwald writes in his new ebook, We Are Consuming the Earth. Partly as a result of it consumes a lot land, agriculture contributes between 1 / 4 and a 3rd of all greenhouse fuel emissions, and as humanity’s numbers climb, its footprint will swell. “If present tendencies maintain, the world’s farmers will clear at the very least a dozen extra Californias’ value of land to fill almost 10 billion human bellies by 2050,” Grunwald writes.

Grunwald’s ebook — a vigorous, reportorial world tour by means of the misunderstood science and politics of agriculture, usually defined by way of Gen X film references — is amongst a slate of recent titles that I like to consider because the abundance agenda of meals.

Abundance, Ezra Klein and Derek Thompson’s bestselling it-girl of wonk manifestos, shares mental DNA with a rising set of concepts bringing supply-side financial ideas to the way forward for farming. Simply as we will’t clear up the housing disaster or the inexperienced vitality hole with a politics of shortage, we will’t repair agriculture’s planetary influence by merely producing much less meals. We now have to develop sufficient meals to affordably and sustainably feed a world of 8 billion and counting. And since there’s a tough restrict on land, meaning determining how one can squeeze extra meals out of our treasured acreage.

The proposed options may shock you. They aren’t crunchy farming philosophies like native agriculture or so-called regenerative ranching — woefully inefficient, low-productivity methods that, if deployed at scale, would imply mowing down the world’s remaining forests, accelerating local weather change and mass extinction. That’s as a result of wild, carbon-sequestering ecosystems are our greatest pure defenses towards local weather change, which is one thing that no agricultural sample can replicate. “Each farm, even the scenic ones with crimson barns and rolling hills that artists paint and writers sentimentalize, is a type of environmental crime scene,” Grunwald writes. And right this moment, “international agriculture is shifting south, towards tropical forests and wetlands which are the world’s most dear carbon sinks,” just like the Amazon.

Meaning an important determinant of agriculture’s planetary influence is how a lot land it sucks up — what Grunwald calls “the eating-the-earth downside.” By this measure, standard, intensive, industrial crop farming like that practiced throughout the US, and closely criticized by many environmentalists, outperforms natural agriculture or low-yield farming frequent in low-income nations, for the straightforward purpose that it produces probably the most meals on the least land (although there’s, to make certain, nuance to this debate).

We Are Consuming the Earth is joined by a grumpier, extra educational provocation on meals sustainability. Meals Battle, by UC Davis agricultural economist Richard Sexton, decries the insurance policies being carried out around the globe, usually within the identify of serving to the surroundings, that may make farming much less productive and fewer sustainable, and meals costlier. “By no means have governments actively intervened to implement insurance policies assured to cut back meals manufacturing the way in which they do right this moment and promise to do into the long run,” he argues, dismantling approaches starting from mindless ethanol mandates within the US and elsewhere to Europe’s pro-organic and anti-GMO insurance policies.

These are clever, extremely well timed books that get many issues proper, surfacing the misguided pastoral fantasies and deadly misunderstandings of land use that make it arduous for us to pursue sane agricultural insurance policies. They encourage due respect for a contemporary industrial meals system that, for all its issues, has achieved spectacular feats of productiveness essential to help a planet of billions of individuals.

However their emphasis on intensification additionally leads them someplace much more ominous: a protection of the worst a part of our meals system, one that may result in ever-more horrifying ranges of struggling and dying.

The rise of anti-anti-factory farming

Repairing our meals system is so confoundingly troublesome partially as a result of it usually feels extra intractable than it must be. We already know we may alleviate loads of the issue by consuming much less meat and dairy — the meals equal of coal energy — and extra vegetation, however convincing customers to try this by means of both coverage or suasion is admittedly, actually arduous. (Imagine me, I strive).

“One American pollster informed me meat taxes had been probably the most unpopular coverage he ever surveyed, ‘up there with veterans’ advantages for ISIS,’” Grunwald grimly remarks. And one of many surest bets you possibly can place on the long run, as each authors level out, is that as folks in low- and middle-income nations grow to be richer, they may eat heaps extra animal merchandise. People already slaughter an eye-watering 80 billion land animals per yr, a quantity that may proceed to soar.

Resigned to that dismal actuality, each We Are Consuming the Earth and Meals Battle mirror an concept that’s more and more prevalent in way forward for meals debates — that manufacturing facility farms, regardless of their cruelty, are a obligatory evil. Name it anti-anti-factory farming.

The reasoning is simple sufficient. Animal agriculture takes up a number of land and assets — that’s why meat is unhealthy for the surroundings within the first place. The one approach to produce it at scale with out blowing up local weather targets and clearing rainforests is to lift animals as intensively as doable by means of what’s referred to as “sustainable intensification.”

Manufacturing facility farms don’t exist merely to be evil, in spite of everything, however slightly as a result of they produce animal merchandise with the fewest doable inputs. Simply as a lot as these books puncture Michael Pollan-esque pipe desires of feeding the world with pasture-raised steak, additionally they have little endurance for animal rights activists who need to regulate manufacturing facility farming out of existence.

Thus included on Sexton’s record of misguided insurance policies are animal welfare legal guidelines like California’s Proposition 12, which ban a few of the most excessive types of confinement for cattle, together with caging feminine breeding pigs in crates so small they’re comparable to spending a complete human life trapped inside a coffin.

“Insurance policies being imposed within the identify of animal welfare cut back the productiveness of those animals and lift the prices of manufacturing animal merchandise,” he writes. In equity to Sexton, whom I’ve an infinite quantity of respect for and have interviewed for quite a few tales, he suggests what he argues is an alternate, less expensive path to attaining the welfare advantages of Prop 12. “I like animals and wish them to be handled nicely,” he writes.

A stark, dimly lit photograph taken from a high angle shows several large, light-pink pigs confined in individual metal stalls inside what appears to be a factory farm. The narrow stalls are lined up in a row, barely wider than the pigs themselves, preventing them from turning around. The pig on the right looks directly up toward the camera, its snout and ears illuminated by the harsh overhead light. The floor is dark and appears wet, and the overall scene conveys a sense of intense confinement.

Pigs housed in gestation crates.
Jo-Anne McArthur/We Animals Media

Grunwald extra gingerly suggests manufacturing facility farms stay an inevitable, if inhumane and never ultimate, a part of meals manufacturing. In a controversial New York Instances essay final December, he argued, “the inconvenient fact is that manufacturing facility farms are the perfect hope for producing the meals we’ll want with out obliterating what’s left of our pure treasures and vaporizing their carbon into the ambiance.”

One of many surest, most real looking methods to cut back meat’s outsize land and carbon footprints this century, Grunwald writes, is for diets to switch beef with poultry and pork, that are far decrease in local weather influence. However that commerce could be morally calamitous — it takes much more particular person chickens and pigs to provide the identical quantity of meat as beef cattle, and people animals are handled far worse.

The anti-anti-factory farming ethos is definitely a means of taking a look at our meals system. There’s a brutal logic to it that anti-factory farm advocates should study to take care of.

Take dairy cows as only one illustrative instance: Breeding them for maximal productiveness has meant that “since World Warfare II, the US dairy herd has shrunk by two-thirds, but produces two-thirds extra milk,” Grunwald writes. Had that not occurred, we’d have extra dairy cows emitting extra greenhouse gases, and we’d doubtless have cleared extra land and harmed extra ecosystems to develop the crops that feed them. In a lot of the remainder of the world, dairy herds are a lot much less productive, thereby consuming extra assets and polluting the local weather extra for each gallon of milk produced.

But America’s hyper-productive turbo-cows have come at a extreme price to animal welfare. Dairy cows are a few of the most depressing animals in our meals system: Like all mammals, they solely make milk after giving beginning, to feed their infants, however they’ve been bred to provide excess of a calf would drink. These astronomical yields destroy the dairy cow’s physique, forcing her to channel “freakish” quantities of vitality into milk manufacturing, because the meals historian Anne Mendelson has written. (One may argue that the counterfactual could be even worse: a world with extra, less-productive dairy cows, every enduring a lifetime of continuous being pregnant and separation from their calves. However, the sheer extremity of the fashionable turbo-cow’s struggling, and the prospect of bringing many extra of them into the world, crosses an ethical threshold.)

All this for a meals that also, even after cows have been pushed past the bounds of decency, stays considerably worse for the surroundings than merely consuming plant-based meals. So is industrial milk actually a win for the planet?

One among my favourite visualizations the worldwide meals system comes from Our World in Information:

An infographic from Our World in Data titled “Global land use for food production,” which breaks down land usage in a series of nested charts.Chart Breakdown:Earth’s Surface:71% Ocean (369 Million km 2 )29% Land (141 Million km 2 )Land Surface: (A breakdown of the 29% Land)76% Habitable land (107 Million km 2 )14% Barren land (20 Million km 2 )10% Glaciers (14 Million km 2 )Habitable Land: (A breakdown of the 76% Habitable land)45% Agriculture (48 Million km 2 )38% Forests (40 Million km 2 )13% Shrub (14 Million km 2 )3% Water bodies (3 Million km 2 )1% Urban and built-up land (1 Million km 2 )Agricultural Land: (A breakdown of the 45% Agricultural land)80% Livestock: meat, dairy, textiles (38 Million km 2 , comprised of 32 million km 2  of grazing land and 6 million km 2  of cropland for feed)16% Crops for food (8 Million km 2 )4% Non-food crops like biofuels and cotton (2 Million km 2 )Food Supply Contribution:The chart then links land use to food supply, showing a disparity:Global Calorie Supply:83% from plant-based food17% from meat & dairyGlobal Protein Supply:62% from plant-based food38% from meat & dairyA footnote clarifies that if wild fish catch is included, animal products would provide 18% of calories and 40% of protein.

Plant-based meals — that’s, every little thing that’s not meat, dairy, and eggs — already provide greater than 80 p.c of the world’s energy, and almost two-thirds of our protein, with simply 16 p.c of worldwide agricultural land. One conclusion you possibly can draw from this chart is that animal agriculture is so inherently inefficient — we develop feed crops to lift animals that we then slaughter to feed ourselves — that now we have to work arduous to search out methods of creating it extra productive. One other means of taking a look at it’s that animal agriculture is so inefficient — and, by the way in which, it comes at an unthinkable ethical price, and it may begin the following pandemic — that it might be the definition of lunacy to squander restricted international carbon budgets to provide an ever-greater share of our meals this manner.

However there’s no single council of humanity that may make that call for our species — solely billions of people making market decisions. And so they have proven each signal that they will preserve consuming meat.

So Grunwald requires an all-of-the-above strategy. We Are Consuming the Earth roots for the success of meat options like plant-based and cell-cultivated meat — and it made me really feel extra optimistic about their future than I’ve in a very long time — simply as a lot because it embraces intensive animal manufacturing. Innovation also can make intensive crop agriculture extra planet-friendly, as Grunwald explores, by making it much less depending on inputs that hurt wildlife, like chemical pesticides.

The logic of anti-anti-factory farming genuinely challenged me, as a result of as inconceivable as its decisions really feel — will we torture a number of billion extra animals per yr, or let the Amazon burn? — they’re actual trade-offs that policymakers face day-after-day.

It’s arduous to match the despoiling of irreplaceable ecological wonders to the infernal horror of the manufacturing facility farm in response to a cost-benefit evaluation, as a result of they really feel incommensurate. But when we tried to do it actually, I’m undecided the reply could be as clear as manufacturing facility farming’s defenders recommend. Their case solely works as a result of meals methods evaluation sees animals as financial inputs, not a lot completely different than a bushel of wheat, slightly than as who they are surely. It doesn’t significantly interact with what it actually means to cattle for meals — the incessant ache of a contemporary broiler hen, or the mind-numbing despair of a caged mom pig used as a reproductive machine.

So let me provide yet another new ebook suggestion: my good friend the thinker John Sanbonmatsu’s The Omnivore’s Deception. One other rebuke of Michael Pollan and his protection of consuming animals, it’s the uncommon ebook that unshrinkingly names our tyranny over animals as a “civilizational error,” as Sanbonmatsu writes. It’s “about what occurs once we set up our society, financial system, and day by day lives round a radical evil, then interact in self-deception to maintain the reality of that evil from ourselves.”

We Are Consuming the Earth is, to an important extent, a piece of unsentimental pragmatism, which makes the spirited case for principled idealism within the ebook’s last moments all of the stronger. Typically progress is dependent upon a “refusal to learn the room and cease saying issues no person wished to listen to,” Grunwald writes. “It pays to maintain working and preventing the great battle, as a result of perhaps one thing good will occur. Perhaps it gained’t, however should you don’t preserve working and preventing, it undoubtedly gained’t.”

We must always have a look at animal agriculture the identical means. We may proceed turning our planet into a large manufacturing facility farm, however then, what are we even doing all this for? If we proceed to disregard one of many biggest atrocities of our time — and develop it even additional — what could be the purpose of constructing such a world?

All around the globe, there are animal advocates urging their fellow people to vary course, and the one means we’ll really feel our means out of the manufacturing facility farm lure is to decide to that job. We don’t know if we’ll ever persuade humanity to desert the “radical evil” of manufacturing facility farming, however it might be an abdication to surrender making an attempt.

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